Day 12 - Hargeisa to UK! (5km on foot)

After my breakfast at my hotel I had a chat with the manager (I think he was the manager, he is the guy who always where’s a hat!) about organising a taxi to take me to the airport. He informed me he could organise one for me for a price of $14, he also said I could stay at the hotel as long as I needed which was really kind of him as my flight back to the UK wasn't until 5:40pm.

I now had a good half day left to explore a bit more of Hargeisa, so I decided to head north and had a good wander around Gobenimo Market and took a few nice photos with the help of some friendly locals.

Gobenimo Market 

Gobenimo Market

Gobenimo Market

Gobenimo Market 

Back at my hotel for lunch I packed my things and got myself ready for my flight home. As it happens it was the manager of the hotel himself who took me to the airport!

Always a sad time!

Day 11 - Hargeisa (34km bike ride and 7km on foot)

My cycling friends slept in so I wasn’t picked up from my hotel until 6:40am (rather than the pre-arranged 6am). It was another great ride again and this time we headed east and completed a loop incorporating Naaso Hablood, which actually had a strong police presence when we passed, the guys told me it was due to some land disputes and some of the locals had been fighting. We were told by the police not to linger! Once again, we had a lead car with a couple of guys on video duties! Mid way through the ride I was presented with a book - The Rebirth of Somaliland which I was quite moved by.

Cycling Somaliland

Cycling Somaliland

Cycling Somaliland

Cycling Somaliland

Naaso Hablood

Cycling Somaliland

Cycling Somaliland

Our Cycle Route on Strava

A few videos from the ride:

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7317788476831829281?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7317921097423375649?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7317951426422951201?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319475115312303393?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319485977553145121?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319511395194719520?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319526196826377505?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319596994522025248?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319598730275999008?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319600927399218464?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319742862281821472?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319839036212858144?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

https://www.tiktok.com/@dulqarnayn.show/video/7319864346950094112?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7312511252491322912

Back at my hotel I chilled for a little while before heading out for a bite to eat at Laas Geel Cafe for a nice lemon and garlic chicken meal, finished off with a slice of carrot cake which was nothing like the carrot caked I am used to back home! I later ended up walking past the Dhoolayre Hotel, were I met the very friendly owner and sat with him for a while where we had a good chat. He shared some of his khat with me, (the bundle cost him $25 he told me and I could see the quality and freshness of it compared to the khat I’d had in Berbera a few days earlier). He's mate was chewing miraa which is apparently stronger than khat and grown in Kenya.

Before heading back to my hotel, I visited the Purple Coffee Corner for a couple of strong coffees, and then visiting a chemist to purchase a nasal inhaler as I’d been suffering quite badly with all the dusty roads, what with the amount of walking I do. The very friendly guy in the chemist charged me a straight 10 dollars!

I popped out for my evening meal and visited Laas Geel again and had another cracking meal. I paid in shillings rather than dollars as flying home in the morning and I needed to get rid of them!

Day 10 - Burao to Hargeisa (7km on foot)

Once packed I headed off and flagged down a tuk-tuk outside my hotel and asked the driver to take me to the bus station (only 1000 Sh this time!). On arrival which was next to Hotel Ruwais, I was soon greeted by a friendly guy who helped me purchase a ticket for $9 and I was told it would be leaving at 9am, so I had 30 minutes to kill so I grabbed a cup of coffee from next door at the Hotel Ruwais. Back at the ticket office for 9am there were some discussions about potentially a delay of 45 minutes I think, although to be honest I was a little confused. However, the helpful guy who came to my aid earlier ushered me to jump into his lorry with him, (I never knew he had a lorry parked nearby!) whereby he then drove about a mile or so out of town and finally parked up behind a large bus! I thanked him for his help and boarded the bus and before long I was soon on my way to Hargeisa!! (Presumably I was initially taken to a bus station by the tuk-tuk driver rather than where one would go to catch a minibus which is what I have been using since my arrival in Somaliland)

My bus to Hargeisa

The bus was great, there was hardly anybody on it. I had to show my paperwork at two check points in total on my way to Hargeisa. We stopped once for lunch and I finally arrived in Hargeisa at 3pm, I was dropped off a few yards from the Oriental Hotel where I checked in again.

I later headed out for a walk and popped into Cafe Laalays for a nice pot of tea and a slice of ginger cake. What a lovely place it was, albeit just me as the only customer, as I'd missed the lunch time slot! I later also popped into the cafe called Cup of Joy for a nice coffee and another slice of cake whilst trying to find Cafe Barbera which was apparently nearby according to my guidebook?

Building Site in Hargeisa

Celebrating Independence Day in Somaliland

In the evening, I visited Cafe Laas Geel for a cracking mushroom steak meal and an even more cracking date juice! It was here I hooked up with my new cycling mates again whom I'd met last week. It was good to see them again and we discussed our plans for our next ride together in the morning, unfortunately they suggested a 6am start as it would be nice and cool, so an early night for me it was!

Day 9 - Burao (11km on foot)

During the night I realised my mattress was as hard as concreate, otherwise it was an ok sleep! I decided to grab a tuk-tuk into the centre after breakfast to the Juma Mosque (2000 Sh). It was a great area just to wander around and soak up the atmosphere. I visited the nearby tea house and sat with the locals for a while which was great fun.

Very bumpy tuk-tuk ride!

Juma Mosque in Burao

Tea House next to Juma Mosque

Tea House next to Juma Mosque

I later walked down the long dusty road to the livestock market which I would say is about 2.5km rather the 1.5km my guidebook suggested. At the turn on the main road for the market I met a very helpful guy who was more than happy to show me around and before long there were about 20 people following us! Unfortunately, I managed to take one photograph before some guy protested and told me not to take anymore photo's! To be honest I wasn't that fussed anyway. I thanked my local guide and then headed back into town and had my lunch at the Dallo Hotel, and had a very nice chicken and rice meal with a nice refreshing mango drink which actually tasted of mango, (some I have had have been very watery!) I was also impressed with them actually giving me the bottled water they had used so I could see how much water they had actually added! (Normally you just get charged for the water and never see the water bottle!)

On my way to the Livestock Market

The Livestock Market in Burao

The Livestock Market in Burao (On the way out!)

After my lunch I headed back to my hotel and chilled with a pot of tea before heading back out just for a local stroll. My evening meal was lamb and rice at the hotel which was very good.

😁

Day 8 - Sheikh to Burao (13km on foot)

I was up early and enjoyed another walk (heading north) through a pleasantly cool Sheikh before heading back to my local tea house (second best cuppa so far in Somaliland in my opinion!) where I had a chat with the locals, discussing my next trip to Burao.

Back at my hotel I packed my things and then headed back to my favourite tea house and had probably the best cup of coffee I have had since arriving in Somaliland! With my coffee consumed I then left with one of the locals (a young guy) who very kindly walked down the main drag with me asking many people in the local stores about the next bus to Burao. I only had to sit down for about 20 minutes before one arrived and I paid 2600 Sh, (the driver asked for $3). It was an easy drive with good roads and I was dropped off at the main roundabout in Burao where there were plenty of tuk-tuks hanging around. I picked one up for $3 (should be $2!) and I asked to be taken to the City Plaza Hotel.

Bumpy tuk-tuk ride to my hotel!

On arrival at the City Plaza Hotel, I was greeted by a friendly guy who showed me a few rooms to choose from! I settled for one which was next to the main courtyard at a price of $26 and I had my first hot shower (well warm anyway) since leaving Hargeisa, result!!

I later headed out and walked down the main road leading to the centre of Burao and was greeted by loads of friendly people along the way again! I had a bite to eat before returning to my hotel.

Top Gear Car Wash!

Burao

Burao

Mosque (Near my hotel)

Burao

Day 7 - Bebera to Sheikh (4km on foot)

In the morning I organised a taxi from the Mansoor Hotel to take me to the bus station for my trip to Sheikh. The taxi driver clearly picked up his kids and dropped them off with his wife on route and wanted $3 for the trip. At the bus station in Berbera I was impressed with the large building and the peacefulness of it! As soon as I jumped out of the taxi a few people came to my aid and within minutes I had my ticket for Sheikh at a cost of $4 (although again as I had no change I paid 3,500 Sh). I only had to wait about 10 minutes before we headed off, again having one seat for my backpack and one seat for myself so all good.

At the first checkpoint we all had to jump off the bus, the security guys seemed more interested in a local man carrying many packets of condoms and it did look as if they were confiscating a few packets for their own pleasure! Once back on the bus we later stopped for lunch at Upper Sheikh, just before the start of all the ascending along the glorious road up to Sheikh (I'd love to cycle up one day!).

Upper Sheikh

Upper Sheikh

I asked the driver to drop me off outside the Hashi Barroo Hotel in Sheikh as recommended by the young guys at Mansoor, which apparently is one of two new hotels recently been built, (not mentioned in the Bradt guide book) at only $10 a night, the other one apparently is $6 a night! The room wasn't up to much but at $10 you can't complain really!

Hashi Barroo Hotel

I later ventured out for a walk and had something to eat at Daallo restaurant near the petrol station which was very nice and cheap enough. I then found a nice tea house and sat down for a while before exploring more of Sheikh and its market area, I was actually quite taken aback by so many friendly people around all wanting to say hello! I also exchanged some much needed money at Telesum.

Tea House in Sheikh

Market Area in Sheikh

Sheikh

Sheikh

Day 6 - Berbera (17km on foot)

Although it was unbelievably quiet at my hotel during the night, sadly I did not get a wink of sleep because of the all the khat I'd had the day before! I had my breakfast early and headed out along the beach again, I was back in the centre of Bebera by 9am. I decided to walk up and down all the main roads within the centre - Daarol, as I did not really do a great deal of exploring the day before, what with being sat on my butt for 4 hours! It was great seeing all the old buildings with their character, they definitely made for great photos as did the children constantly asking to be photographed!

Baathela Beach in Berbera

Former Ottoman House Ruin in Berbera

Former Ottoman House Ruin in Berbera

Former Ottoman House Ruin in Berbera

Former Ottoman House Ruin in Berbera

Children in Berbera

Berbera

Tea House in Berbera

Berbera

By lunch time I decided to head back to Al Xayaat, (decided to give it a second go!) but on route a car pulled up alongside me and a guy got out and asked if I was a tourist or a journalist (you get this asked loads), to which I replied a tourist. He informed me he was from the Ministry of Tourism and asked to see my paperwork, so I asked to see his identification! He showed me his card and all looked legit, but I noticed there were other guys in the car as well so I told him I would be more comfortable showing him my paperwork at a nearby restaurant as there would be people around me. He then made a phone call, then subsequently passed the mobile to me but to be honest I could not hear or understand a great deal but it turned out it was the guy at the Ministry of Tourism in Hargeisa who had helped me out when I first arrived! With the mobile handed back, all was good and I was off on my merry way!

I was a little disappointed again with my goat meal at Al Xayant, I can't believe my guidebook says it’s the best restaurant in Somaliland, not a chance!! I later carried on exploring a little more before the long hike back to my hotel. Back at my hotel I did a little research with the help of some of the young staff members about my next day’s plans for Sheikh.

Gazelles in Berbera

 Day 5 - Berbera (12km on foot)

I decided to check out of the Damel Hotel in the morning ($42 handed back no problems) as I found it far too noisy. I discovered it was a 3-day holiday and there were a lot of families with their kids all running around making a noise, and it didn't help that my room had an internal window looking out into the main corridor! Just outside the hotel and across the main road I visited a tea house and asked if I could grab a taxi nearby to take me to the Maansoor Hotel, the owner of the tea house (I think?) called Muhammad took me himself in his car! He asked for $3, but I gave him $5 as I was feeling generous!

On arrival at the Mansoor Hotel I was informed the rooms were $63 a night, I was a little surprised as I would say the standard was the same as the Damel Hotel but I guess you are clearly paying for the location; however, it did seem much quieter though!

Gazelle in Berbera

After settling in at the hotel I then headed out along the beach which was full of local families on their holidays, however as I started heading further west along the beach it soon became empty so I decided to cross over the scrub land and then onto the main road and eventually made my way into the heart of Berbera - Daarol. I was soon greeted by many young children all keen to have their photograph taken so I was more than happy to oblige! Whilst walking through the heart of Daarol I stopped off at a local tea and khat house and sat down with some locals and before I knew it I was drinking copious amounts of sweet black tea and chewing on khat! To be precise, I had one and a half bundles of khat in four hours!! It was a great experience for sure and I certainly felt the effect, especially when I attempted to get out of my chair after being seated for four hours! About an hour before it was due to get dark, I thought it be best to leave, so I said my goodbyes and headed to the nearby restaurant called Al Xayaat, (khat may suppress hunger but I like my food!) Along the way I met a nice bunch of young students who all found it amusing when I informed them about my khat experience! They made sure I arrived at the restaurant all safe and sound which was very kind of them.

Baathela Beach in Berbera

Colourful Shop Front in Berbera

Colourful Gate in Berbera

Former Ottoman House Ruin in Berbera

Old House in Berbera

Children in Berbera

Children in Berbera

Chewing Khat and Drinking Tea in Berbera

Chewing Khat and Drinking Tea in Berbera

For my meal at the restaurant, I had an absolutely huge snapper fish with pasta but to be honest I wasn't really that impressed (my guidebook tells me it’s the best restaurant in the whole of Somaliland) as the fish was very dry, I actually ended giving most of it to the many cats all hanging about!

Snapper Fish

After leaving the restaurant I headed back to the tea house and I asked if Muhammad was around, a few telephone calls were made and within 10 minutes he arrived, and the very affable guy took me back to my hotel for some much-needed rest. I paid him $3 and 1000 Sh this time! (I was fully aware the fare should only be about $2, but I was more than happy to tip him again)