Friday, 22 December 2023

 Day 5 - Berbera (12km on foot)

I decided to check out of the Damel Hotel in the morning ($42 handed back no problems) as I found it far too noisy. I discovered it was a 3-day holiday and there were a lot of families with their kids all running around making a noise, and it didn't help that my room had an internal window looking out into the main corridor! Just outside the hotel and across the main road I visited a tea house and asked if I could grab a taxi nearby to take me to the Maansoor Hotel, the owner of the tea house (I think?) called Muhammad took me himself in his car! He asked for $3, but I gave him $5 as I was feeling generous!

On arrival at the Mansoor Hotel I was informed the rooms were $63 a night, I was a little surprised as I would say the standard was the same as the Damel Hotel but I guess you are clearly paying for the location; however, it did seem much quieter though!


Gazelle in Berbera

After settling in at the hotel I then headed out along the beach which was full of local families on their holidays, however as I started heading further west along the beach it soon became empty so I decided to cross over the scrub land and then onto the main road and eventually made my way into the heart of Berbera - Daarol. I was soon greeted by many young children all keen to have their photograph taken so I was more than happy to oblige! Whilst walking through the heart of Daarol I stopped off at a local tea and khat house and sat down with some locals and before I knew it I was drinking copious amounts of sweet black tea and chewing on khat! To be precise, I had one and a half bundles of khat in four hours!! It was a great experience for sure and I certainly felt the effect, especially when I attempted to get out of my chair after being seated for four hours! About an hour before it was due to get dark, I thought it be best to leave, so I said my goodbyes and headed to the nearby restaurant called Al Xayaat, (khat may suppress hunger but I like my food!) Along the way I met a nice bunch of young students who all found it amusing when I informed them about my khat experience! They made sure I arrived at the restaurant all safe and sound which was very kind of them.


Baathela Beach in Berbera


Colourful Shop Front in Berbera


Colourful Gate in Berbera

Former Ottoman House Ruin in Berbera


Old House in Berbera


Children in Berbera


Children in Berbera


Chewing Khat and Drinking Tea in Berbera


Chewing Khat and Drinking Tea in Berbera


For my meal at the restaurant, I had an absolutely huge snapper fish with pasta but to be honest I wasn't really that impressed (my guidebook tells me it’s the best restaurant in the whole of Somaliland) as the fish was very dry, I actually ended giving most of it to the many cats all hanging about!


Snapper Fish

After leaving the restaurant I headed back to the tea house and I asked if Muhammad was around, a few telephone calls were made and within 10 minutes he arrived, and the very affable guy took me back to my hotel for some much-needed rest. I paid him $3 and 1000 Sh this time! (I was fully aware the fare should only be about $2, but I was more than happy to tip him again)


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